Men’s fashion trends  are few and far between; yes, a lot of women’s trends are eventually adapted to the men’s market, but if men’s hair trends prove anything it is that classics will always rule when it comes to men’s fashion. Unsurprisingly it’s no different when it comes to men’s suits.



While suiting and formal-wear trends for men aren’t seasonal (unless, of course, you’re talking about the weight of the cloth) and play out over several years, 2010 and 2011 continue the change in men’s suiting that rose to the fore in recent years. For the foreseeable future the trend in men’s suiting revolves around the classics, but more specifically modern takes on the classics. A good suit for this decade will take the best elements from the peak eras of men’s suiting (think the formality of the Victorian era, the savoir faire of the 1930s and the skinny detailing of the 1960s) and apply them to a modern silhouette.

So what elements should you look for?

The Cut of the Suit

In men’s suiting there’s a move away from the ’skinny boy’ suit, but that’s not to say slim is out altogether or that a boxy cut has replaced it. Instead, think of a cut that takes would appeal to a military officer, one that accents a sense of the masculine through three key silhouette elements:

1. broad shoulders
2. a slim waist
3. slim trousers

As for the individual cuts?

Double Breasted Suits and Sport Coats.

If there’s one cut that I’m glad I’ve been able to return to my wardrobe for this decade it’s the modern, double-breasted suit. Those of you old enough to remember the last time the double breasted suit or sports coat was in (the 1980s through to the mid 1990s) may remember the boxy cut it inevitably came with. Fear not, that cut is gone (and if you’re still sitting on double breasted suiting from that era, take it off to the tailors to refresh its life). In its place is a cut that pairs broad shouldered with a slim waist, a cut that defies what double breasted suits were originally designed to do: hide a plump figure. Instead their now designed to accent and to heighten the perfect masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body.

One additional styling tip: when selecting a double-breasted suit look for the “Kent” cut. Named after a style popularised by the The Prince George, Duke of Kent, it’s a cut of double breasted suits where a longer lapel line extends into the waist. That is to say: the part of the double breasted suit that sits on the front buttons on the waist line.  This small detail will convey height and, if cut correctly, a slimmer waist. You’ll find the Kent suit cut amongst a number of collections, including D&G Fall 2010

THREE PEICE SUITS

Let’s face it: the waistcoat has long been a dead item for most men, but thanks to resurgence in its popularity in men’s street wear the suits’ waistcoat is back with vengeance. Well, not quite vengeance but it’s back, it’s subtle and it’s classic. And that means that in 2010/11 we’ll witness the return of the three-piece suit, and I couldn’t be happier. That’s because the three-piece suit has been one of the most under-utilised parts of a man’s wardrobe over the last forty years.

The three-piece in 2010/11 is all about cohesion; forget the mismatching style prevalent in the early parts of the 20th Century and in the 1980s. The return of the three-piece means that the waistcoat has to be conservative and, thus, in the same fabric as the suit’s other two pieces. If you do want to venture outside the realm of three matching pieces, stick to a similar colour palette and avoid any pattern except for stripes; you may want to pair a pinstripe black suit with a pinstripe charcoal waistcoat.

On selecting the perfect three-piece suit I’d recommend looking for a waistcoat whose V shape breaks somewhere between the sternum and the base of the rib cage. I’ve seen three pieces from the likes of Giorgio Armani which don’t sport the V shape and finish just under the collar, these are going to be a lot harder to wear and ignore the conservative subtlety this revival depends upon. Moreover, such a large waistcoat won’t convey a slim waist as effectively as one with a deeper neck.

The Fabric / Suit Cloth

As we’ve returned to the classics with double breasted and three-piece suits, then it should come as no surprise that classic cloths, patterns and fabrics have also returned. As an added bonus, adding classic cloths to your wardrobe allows for the inclusions of fabrics and colours that you mightn’t otherwise have as an option (and helps you steer away from having the typical men’s wardrobe: black, grey, navy).

While the following are classic suit patterns perfect for 2010, 2011 and beyond, don’t forget that you can also work these same cloths into components of men’s suiting without making it an actual suit; that is, sport coats, blazers and trousers.

Harris Tweed

Houndstooth

Herringbone

Houndstooth

Pinstripe

Rope-stripe

Of course, nothing is more classic or ‘formal’ than the dinner suit. But its rules vary greatly to semi-formal and fashion suits so be sure to read our separate articles on FASHIONABLE DINNER SUITS/ TUXEDOES which additionally focuses its pairing with street wear.

Yes, suits in 2010 and 2011 are all about classic elements but there are still plenty of factors away from the trend elements that you have to contemplate. Consider all of the following before making an investment in a suit this year.

How Many Buttons?

The amount of buttons a single-breasted suit jacket should sport is really a matter of personal preference, but let me offer the following.

One Button
A single button falls into the realm of a fashion suit; it’s been a trend before and will go out again. And there’s a reason for it: within reason, the more buttons a suit jacket has the taller a gentleman looks (yet another of the visual tricks a suit can perform). So it stands to reason that a single-buttoned suit does the opposite to conveying stature. So unless you’re over 6′ 2″, I’d suggest you avoid a single-buttoned suit.

Two Buttons
My preference for a modern suit. It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.

Three Buttons
Very much a look of the 1990’s, it’s making a come back and has been seen amongst the tailored wares of Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label. Three buttons convey a greater sense of height than a two button suit, but are harder to pull off. I own ONE, and wear it in a fashion-forward sense. Definitely one for the more confident amongst us.

Four Buttons or more
Please don’t. I’m yet to see any four button suits offered in 2010/11 which truly impress me, fall within current men’s trends, and will figure in as a good investment piece beyond this year.

THE SHOULDER

A lot of suit terms can be mixed and matched, but I’m a fan of something I’ve always called the ‘British rolled-shoulder.’ Others might call it something else, but it is effectively where the shoulder padding finishes. A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve, and figures into men’s suiting as another visual trick – this time designed to make the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.

VENTS

This one is really simple: choose a suit with two side vents. The only time to break this rule is if you’re buying a dinner suits.

When tailored correctly a suit jacket with side vents is always preferential due to the perfect silhouette it can provide.

LAPELS

Since the mid-20th Century notched lapels on a suit have been the staple, but as we return towards classic tailoring in 2010 we’ll see a return of the peaked lapel. Last at the fore of fashion in the 1920s, the peaked lapel is another of the great visual elements of a men’s suit: it helps convey the much coveted V shape.

That said, notched lapels aren’t out of fashion and both are an equally good investment.

WHICH CLOTH SHOULD YOU PICK

The fabric you buy your suit in will be on of the biggest factors in the price you pay, but selecting the right fabric will also play a big factor in whether you buy an investment piece or a one season wonder.

Wool
The clear favourite for suits, but pick carefully. I’ve seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 120 and 150. I tend towards 150 as it’s often perfect on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, in more extreme climates you’ll need both Winter (200 thread count) and Summer (100 thread count) suits in wool.

Cotton
Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake: it’s best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colours which aren’t black and grey, tending towards navy and tan. If you’re looking for a good cotton suit in a modern, slim classic then look to Ralph Lauren’s Black Label.

Linen

So many men simply don’t understand linen, and it’s often those of us who have had the luck of a childhood in Europe that may ever truly appreciate it. But a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid summer days. Shy away from it in browns and wear it in colours such as white and cream and you’ll stand out in a crowd of otherwise dull suit wearers.

One final note on linen: don’t be scared of its penchant for creasing, it’s all a part of the fabric’s charm

The last thing I want to do is stereotype by implying that no men care about shoes, or that all women do. Those suggestions are ludicrous and insulting.

I know guys who have extensive wardrobes of men’s shoes. I’ve also know women who couldn’t care less whether or not wedges are “hot” this season.

Gender aside, some view shoes as practical necessities, while others have a shoe obsession. Most people probably land somewhere in between.

However, many men are uncomfortable wearing a variety of styles in men’s shoes.

For example, men who wear work-type boots for their jobs might have a tendency to stick with that style of footwear. Other guys avoid certain clothes or events because sneakers are not considered appropriate.

I don’t believe this is disdain for other styles of shoes, but more of a lack of confidence when it comes to choosing casual shoes. If this sounds like you or someone you know, the following sections contain loads of helpful advice for choosing men’s shoes.

General Rules for Men’s Shoes

• Try to pick a shoe that matches, or is darker than your pants.

• Although it is a safe bet, socks do not need to match your shoes. Instead, think of your socks as you would a tie.

• If wearing a belt, try to match your shoes to it, unless of course, your belt is some multi-colored striped thing.

Men’s Shoes for Jeans

You can wear almost any color or style of shoe with jeans, but avoid very shiny shoes that were obviously intended for dressier outfits.

Boots, lug soles,plimsols, sneakers, loafers and sandals all work great with jeans, so you may find it helpful to let the style of your shirt guide you.

For example – a sporty, polo shirt might work with a loafer; t-shirts go well with sneakers or retro-style shoes; long, artsy button-downs work well with sandals or moc toe oxford styles.

Men’s Shoes for Casual Pants

Whether you call them Dockers, chinos, or khakis, there are a variety of loafers, oxford and other men’s shoes that work well with casual pants.

Let the ornamentation and style of the shoe guide you towards the look you’re trying to achieve.

For example, a tassle or a buckle is a little more on the dressy side, while a woven pattern or heavy stitching is a little more on the casual side.

Men’s Shoes for Dress Pants

With dress pants, shoot for the same type of shoe that you might wear with a suit. Shinier materials usually indicate a dressier shoe, as do less bulky heels and soles. Choose a shoe that is the same color or darker than your pants, and if wearing a belt, match your shoes to it.

Color Matching for Men’s Shoes

• Black shoes work well with navy, grey or black pants.

• Brown shoes are best suited to tan, brown, beige, greens, other darker earth tones.

• Burgundy shoes work well with khaki, lighter browns, blue and grey.

• Tan shoes look great with lighter earth tones, blue, beige, lighter tan or white.

Much Love…..

p/s be aware that your shoes say a lot about you… so if your finding it hard to get a woman you might have to go buy new shoes….

“Arghhhhhhhhhhhhh
“Why are dudes dressing like females?”
“Only men who are celebrities can wear skinny jeans and get away with it and people will say that stuff looks cute or that it looks nice…

If you’ve been keeping up with hiphop culture (or even pop culture) for that matter, these are some of the thoughts I’m sure you’ve been having lately. And if you haven’t, I sure have. Trends in fashion typically are a reflection of what is going on in the world at that moment in time, and one must wonder what is happening in our world that is provoking designers to promote, and consumers to consume, fashion that is neither specifically male nor female.

At his Aug. 5th stop on the Glow in the Dark tour, Kanye West addressed the issue of how personal interpretation can often be hurtful and disrespectful by saying, “You know how many people came at me, calling me ‘gay’ cause I wear my jeans the fresh way? …That sh** is disrespectful.”

Anyone who know me properly will know that I respect Kanye and I believe he is innovative and refreshing in an where absence of thought seems to be celebrated. And I appreciate Kanye’s penchant to unapologetically verbalize his thoughts. He me think, just as I encourage my readers to. However, Kanye is experiencing the effects of a culture that has embraced delicacy and more feminine ways, and not everyone is ok with it.

Kanye brought to light the connection between representation and truth.
On its face, men are no longer required to represent themselves in hyper masculine ways. When men are not visibly representative of their stereotyped masculinity, they are labelled in ways that question their heterosexuality. I don’t agree with labelling someone solely based upon how they look, but at it’s hard to ignore what appears to be the obvious. When a man is undoubtedly effeminate in his appearance, perceptions are created.. Even though there is a saying now that men that are like that are Metrosexuals (KMT rubbish).

I do see that men are embracing their femininity, and the tight jeans are just a small example of that. Still, some men are going a tad bit too far with trying to toe the line of “I’m straight but I don’t act like it’. More and more men are adopting social behaviours and styles of dress that are so androgynous, so sexually blurred, that the lines between heterosexuality and homosexuality, male and female, are no longer drawn clearly in the sand, and the fear of crossing back and forth over them is no longer as prevalent.

For years, entertainment culture has tried to include everyone, straight, gay, or in-between. But in recent years, with the rise of metrosexuality, heterosexual men are seeing their masculinity compromised.

Pick up any high fashion magazine, or specifically, the American Apparel clothing catalogue, and you’re likely to see men posed in ways that are clearly geared towards the LGBT (lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgendered) community. Once considered “hardcore” rappers are proudly sporting nut-hugging pants that would give any woman a crazy yeast infection.

And if at all you want to wear skinny jeans ensure you have the right shape of legs to go with it, I mean what’s up with men that wear skinny’s and know full well that they have bowlegs, knocked knees two left feet, big thighs, massive calves, and lastly bulging manhood….pls pls pls its meant to be hidden….. FIX UP…

So, I ask you enlightened folks a few questions: If androgynous clothing styles are stereotypically considered to be more “gay-friendly” than “hetero-friendly”, why are heterosexual men being encouraged to believe that it’s cool or trendy to adopt these types of fashion choices? Like I questioned above, what are these messages sending? And, like I like to ask “are these just trends… or are people using this as an excuse to show their true colours?”

Much Love……..

Note: This is not an anti-gay post. I am purely curious as to why the lines between hetero/homo are being erased as they pertain to heterosexual men.